Thursday, 30 July 2015

China - wrapping up (28 July 2015)


 

I write as we are on our journey home - our tour has come to an end and we farewelled our fellow travellers as we each head back to our various corners of the world and boarded our flight leaving Shanghai.... EVENTUALLY....  In what had become for us a regular event, after queuing for an hour at the check in counter we find our flight is delayed (5 out of 6 departures have been delayed!!). So there was an immediate problem as  we knew we wouldn't make our connection in Kuala Lumpur for our flight to Adelaide... no worries - they re-ticketed us on a later flight to Melbourne and then on to...... Auckland!!!!!    only a minor typo.... AKL instead of ADL!!!! Phew - lucky I picked that up in the Chinese conversation happening behind the check in desk!!!

Aaaaahhh China. I'm glad I've visited and seen the amazing sights but there's not a lot to encourage me back... especially the airline system.... a seriously large amount of time lost in flight delays, not to mention being diverted to a different airport on arrival in Shanghai a couple of days ago which meant of course there was no-one there to meet us and we had to wait another hour to be picked up.
Not wishing to offend anyone who has Chinese connections but the locals generally don't do anything to encourage foreign tourists either (definitely among the rudest and pushiest people we've ever encountered) - unless they are directly employed in the hospitality industry in which case they are usually super nice.
We have also observed a blatant disregard for rules here... eg going in where it says No Entry, smoking where it says No Smoking, drivers moving traffic hazard cones so they can drive where they aren't supposed to, and as mentioned before, vehicles going through red lights was quite common.(just a few examples)

Anyway, after our amazingly dry run (considering we came expecting to get wet) we did have a couple of days of rain but the temperature was still warm so it didn't really matter too much. It cooled the place down (high twenties instead of mid to high thirties) and cleared the air. Unfortunately though it coincided with our time in Guilin/Yangshou so for those of you who know China, you know this is one of the most scenic places to visit so we didn't get to appreciate it at it's best. However it was still magnificent. It's a landscape filled with karsts - huge rocky structures emerging from the earth. A land version of Halong Bay if you've been there.

Our last couple of days have been in Shanghai. Depending on which web site you look at some claim it to be the most populated city in the world (based on city proper not entire metropolis). It's the entire population of Australia in one city!! An amazingly diverse collection of architecture (old and new) made driving around quite an eye-opener. An evening river cruise showed that Shanghai, like the other cities, loves to light up the place at night in spectacular style. The cleanliness of streets and the beautiful parks and gardens also continued throughout our trip. Also common everywhere was the large amount of ongoing development. One of our guides joked that due to the huge number of construction sites China has adopted a new national bird - the crane!!!

Here's a few more miscellaneous things we've learned/observed/experienced:-
* Overall China was much more affluent, modernised and westernised than we expected.
*Jacobs Creek is the best known Australian wine here.. and David kept proudly telling everyone it was from the area he grew up in! There's also plenty of Yellowtail too!
*Pharmacies are a blend of old and new. Typically one side of the shop has the drugs as we know it - the other side had all the traditional Chinese herbs and "other" things....
*A visit to a food market where customers could purchased live specimens and have them killed and dressed (eg ducks  chickens) revealed that there are definitely some four legged furry animals on the menu that we don't consume in Australia (not that I know of anyway)
*Churches are rare. I think we only sighted a total of 4 in our whole time.
*Museum is code for shop! - if prefixed by words like Silk or Pearl... that actually means you get a 5 minute "information session" followed by 25 minutes of shopping time!!
*National Museum however is a  REAL museum. Like many places everyone undergoes security checks but this one did something unique. If you wanted to take any bottles of liquid into the museum with you, you had to stand there and drink some of it in front of the security guard to prove it wasn't something dangerous!
*Toilets become a regular topic of conversation and the women of the tour group develop a scoring system (anyone who's traveled much will understand).
*Unique accommodation experience in Shanghai. The hotel is located on the outside wall of a huge Olympic size sports stadium - I think some of the rooms are actually located under the corporate boxes and tiered seating! We were allowed to go inside for a look and could have gone jogging on the track if we felt inclined!
* Travelled to 88th floor of a building in 45 second at a speed of 9.1m/sec.
* Saw the Maglev train wizz past at over 400km/hour.

One final note: In my last email I had mentioned that one of our group was taken to hospital. We were thankful to finally receive news a couple of days ago. Turns out he'd had a heart attack and has had surgery for a blocked artery He'll be sent home to Aus once stabilised.

Signing off as we sit in Melbourne awaiting the last leg home.
(...and posted to blogger 3 days later)


Jenny and David
 

China commentary continued (23 July 2015)


As I wasn't able to access blogger whilst in China, I'm posting this some time after writing (after coming home to Australia)


Greetings all from Guilin in southern China.
My last email took 2 days to send... the internet is challenging here... for a while I thought Optus was blocked as well as everything else previously mentioned. So we'll see how this goes.
Like my email, we took a while to depart Guangzhou ... flight was delayed(3 out of 4 domestic flights have been so far!!) then we sat on the tarmac for nearly an hour... but on arrival into Beijing we successfully negotiated the subway to get ourselves to the hotel where we joined our tour group. There's 9 in our group which is very international with 4 Aussies 2 from UK 2 from USA and 1 from NZ.. We are  two thirds through our tour now having disembarked from our Yangtze cruise this morning. Sadly one of our group was hospitalized last night - taken off the boat about 10pm. We await news and hope he and his wife can rejoin us.

So here's an update on our observations about China now....
First the obligatory weather report... We came expecting hot and wet - so far just hot.  Mostly mid to high thirties but quite humid however no rain
😊 😊 .... until this morning! (steady rain all morning at Chongqing) It's hard to know what the temperature actually is. Apparently the govt has to pay a hot weather allowance if the temp is over 37 so funny enough it almost never reaches 37 according to the official weather report...... (or so the story goes)
Due to the expected "less than desirable" weather this is off-peak for tourists.... well foreign tourists that is..... turns out it's peak for the Chinese as its their summer school holidays.... so you can forget what I wrote before about it not being too crowded... now that we are in the major tourist destinations it feels like we've been joined by half the Chinese population!!! No chance of "personal space" - it's shoulder to shoulder. And we've had to quickly learn to be pushy or we'd  just miss out. This applies not only to seeing the sights but also accessing food at buffets!!!!!

Along with the people we've also found the smog and pollution. Since arriving in Beijing there's been something like permanent fog - everything is hazy. It's the same even away from the cities although we have caught a glimpse of blue sky a couple of times. The streets have continued to be amazingly clean and free of rubbish - however there's plenty floating in the Yangtze River..

Traffic is a bit unique in every country. Our observations in Guangzhou were from a pedestrian viewpoint. Seeing traffic as a PASSENGER in Beijing and pretty cities was somewhat alarming - they drive very aggressively... and fast!!

Sightseeing has been quite amazing - highlights being The Great Wall (walked on a small section), Tiananmen Square, The Forbidden City, The Terracotta Warriors and the Yangtze River. It's a pretty spectacular waterway to cruise up and we enjoyed a couple of side excursions along the way. The Three Gorges dam was built across the river some years back - an absolutely huge undertaking. I won't bore you with facts and figures but the most interesting thing is that in order for boats to continue to go up and down the river they had to build a series of locks alongside the dam wall. Forget the little locks we have on the Murray in Australia. The water level difference here is over 100 metres so there's a series of five consecutive locks each with a rise/fall of 22 metres. It took about three hours to go through the five. Over one million people had to be relocated when the dam was built and the river valley filled up, covering thousands of villages towns and cities.... not too many governments could get away with that kind of decision!!!!

This morning we visited Chongqing zoo and saw the famous Pandas. Turns out the rain was a blessing as the pandas tend to hide away in the heat but this morning, with the rain cooling the place down, they were out eating breakfast in full view!

Of course we've seen our quota of temples, pagodas and old historical buildings etc.

One thing the Chinese do do very well is to put on a good stage show. We've seen a few quite spectacular ones including  Kung Fu and acrobatics. They also love  lights and we've seen some pretty spectacular effects on buildings walls fountains and boulevards. One shopping mall featured a 260 metre long digital video screen!!

Food of course is fabulous and plentiful but after more than three weeks of Asian cuisine a schnitzel and mashed potato is sounding very appealing!

Signing off for now.

Jenny and David

Checking In From China (13 July 2015)

As I wasn't able to access blogger whilst in China, I'm posting this some time after writing (after coming home to Australia)

Hi all.
We've just had three fabulous days in Guangzhou (formerly Canton) We had a gap between finishing in Cambodia and starting our Wendy Wu package tour in China and after tossing around lots of ideas of how to fill it in we decided on Guangzhou and we're very glad we did. Third biggest city in China but not really on most tourist routes so amongst the first thing we noted was how"odd" we feel!! So much so that three times yesterday we were asked to pose with locals for photos!!! It also means not a lot of English signage and even less spoken. But enough to get by. And plenty of gestures and pointing - have taken our chances at a couple of local restaurants pointing at pictures on the menu (no English) Mostly it's turned out quite well!
Navigating the underground metro has been very easy and that's one place there's plenty of English signage. Public transport is SO cheap too. Less than 2 dollars to get from airport to city. 50 centres for a ferry ride.

So here's a few somewhat random observations of Guangzhou, which of course may be quite different elsewhere in China.

* people here seem quite affluent. Most very well dressed. Majority have got their smart phones in their hand most of the time.
Very little sign of poverty in the city (I'm sure it exists elsewhere). A few disabled beggars outside the temples and cathedral.
* we are staying right next to a major retail area. Beijing Road "walking street" which means "pedestrian mall"!! Pricing of general stuff like clothes bags and shoes is very similar to Aus.
* it's pretty hot and we have seen some sunshine (smog isn't that bad here!) But the locals don't wear hats or sunglasses. They prefer to use umbrellas for shade. (thankfully we haven't needed them for much rain - only one evening). Oh and if you heard about typhoons in China - it had no affect here.
* it's very clean. Virtually no rubbish lying around
* plenty of trees and flowers. Beautiful parks and gardens.
* way less motor bikes and bicycles than Cambodia and Vietnam. A few motorised push bikes.
* traffic lights cannot be trusted. The green walk sign may be on but most likely a car will still come through against a red light
* there are tourists here - but they are almost all Chinese. They love selfies and selfie sticks!
* MacDonalds and KFC are here
😊 Yes I've had a couple of burgers!!
* a lot of people are very rude and pushy (David thinks its necessary in such a crowded country- survival of the fittest!)
* they DON'T give up their seat on the train for seniors!
* it feels very safe. Plenty of police around and there's video surveillance in the streets.
* we've walked a LOT including doing a walking tour with a guide taking us up and down some back streets seeing very interesting sights. Visited numerous temples and a museum.
* the most tourist thing we've done is go up Canton Tower. 108th floor 440metres. Is the tallest structure in China if measured right to the tip of the telecommunications tower on top.
* tower is brilliantly lit at night, as are lots of buildings and bridges (went on night cruise on river last night)
* people still smoke a LOT! But its progressively being banned in public places (eg the trains)
* there's NOT as many people as we expected. Easy walking in the streets and most train travel quite ok. A few times its been a bit squashy but still not packed.
*The men like to pull their t-shirts up to their armpits to expose their bellies to cool off.... or take them off completely...Eeeww NOT PRETTY!
* people gather in the parks doing tai chi. They also play cards and Chinese checkers! And sing karaoke... really badly!
* not only is Facebook blocked so is a heap of other stuff including anything to do with Google... makes checking anything on the internet tricky - lucky I have Bing installed! Can't use google maps, gmail, blogger, etc....

So we've survived our few DIY days in China. Flying off to Beijing this afternoon to join the package tour which will be quite a change for us.... but I'm looking forward to having everything organised for us and be able to just sit back and enjoy.

Jenny and David

Wednesday, 8 July 2015

Something I forgot

One thing I forgot to write about was that while working with the project we visited a school in one of the rural villages. What was special about it was that one of the teachers there was one of the students staying at Plas Prai the first time we came in 2008. In 2012 we saw her again when she had just finished her teacher training. So it was a delight to see her again, now teaching back in the village she had come from. Evidence of the success of the program seeing a girl go full circle and go back to her village to make a difference.
We also handed out clothing to the children at the school.

cambodia 2

Greetings from Siem Reap, Cambodia.As I said in my first blog this is our fifth visit here (the last only 8 months ago) and third to the Plas Prai project so we find many things very familiar now. Perhaps there are less surprises but the experience is definitely no less pleasurable.Some things are changing though. I'm sure it's hotter (or are we just getting less tolerant with age!?!?) And we notice more building and signs of more money generally (not sure where it's coming from though). Our time at the project and with the girls was just wonderful. They are delightful and cultural boundaries melt as we share laughs over language food and dancing! For us it was an absolute delight to meet our sponsor child,spend time with her and also visit her home in the village and meet her family.We went shopping with the girls at their markets to buy food each day (no fridges so have to buy fresh daily) We taught them how to make pizza (some ingredients brought from home!) - the hostel had just acquired its first ever oven! They taught us to make sour fish soup, right from buying the live fish in the market - it was delicious. And we taught them to crochet, did some other crafts, a short bible study, went to church with them, and gave them plenty of conversational English practice. The two men on the team did some painting. One morning we visited the local World Vision team and David led a short bible study with them. Saturday night we held a graduation party for the year 12 girls. We brought 14 girls to Siem Reap Monday (equivalent of a school excursion) and took them to the temples yesterday. We were supposed to be looking after them but I think it was more the other way around as they affectionately helped us "older women" up and down many tricky flights of stone steps, fanned us to keep us cool and held umbrellas to protect us from the scorching sun!! Had loads of fun playing ball games with them in the pool at the hotel afterwards.The girls headed back home this morning so we've had the day to ourselves. Visited the war museum and tonight went to an acrobatic performance which was simply brilliant.We've been getting plenty of exercise (which is good as we are eating plenty - including frogs legs and silk worm grubs, but I do draw the line at those fried crickets and tarantulas!) Started off with a 20km bike ride at Phnom Penh of which the first 2km was right in the heart of the city traffic (Eeek!!!) Then we crossed the river on a somewhat dubious ferry and cycled through rural areas and an island in the Mekong (2 more dubious ferry crossings) but I must confess I piked out after 17 km and got a lift in a tuk-tuk!! David of course did the full 20. In Preah Vihear we also did plenty of cycling to get to and from the markets and restaurants plus sightseeing. And of course we've walked miles at the temples. The ones here near Angkor Wat we've seen before but new to us was the Preah Vihear temple. It's located on the northern border where Cambodia meets Thailand. It's a bit over an hour from where we were staying with the project. The trip there was relatively ordinary (although I suppose 4 people squeezed into the back seat of a Lexus -with no seat belts of course - is not exactly ordinary!!) The temple is perched on a mountain top and the trip UP the mountain was anything but ordinary. We change to a 4WD Ute fitted with bench seats in the back and zoomed up this road with hairpin bends and 40 degree inclines in places. At the same time the guide was explaining we are entering a military zone. We pass armed soldiers and bunkers (NO PHOTO! NO PHOTO!) We can see across to Thailand and see soldiers on their side too. There is an ongoing border dispute between Cambodia and Thailand!!! Apparently no gunfire fire for last three years though so "no problem"!!  Aaaahh Cambodia - I do love this place.Tomorrow morning (Thursday) we fly to China to be tourists for the next 19 days. Hopefully I'll be able to send you updates from there.Jenny (and David!)

cambodia 1

28 June
Hi everyone. In case you hadn't caught up with our plans we left on holidays yesterday and are already in Phnom Penh Cambodia after an overnight stop over in Kuala Lumpur.It's kind of nice to be back here again. As its our fifth trip many things are very familiar now. However I still feel my eyeballs popping out and jaw dropping at the amazing sights.... traffic chaos, power lines, overloaded motorbikes.... We are only in Phnom Penh for 2 days before heading north to spend a week with a project we've visited twice before. A hostel for girls from remote rural villages - a place for them to stay and enable them to complete high school giving them a brighter hope for the future. We'll do some maintenance on the buildings as well as spending time with the girls - craft activities, English language practice, games, bible study, visiting some of their families in the villages etc. Then taking a few on short excursion to Siem Reap. There's only 7 on this team so quite small. Two are from the UK two from Qld and 3 from SA.When we finish up with the team in Cambodia we are going on to China for a holiday.Will updated you along the way if and when time and the internet permit!!Jenny and David